Tag: chinese food

Capannoli for real this time, Fuccehio, and Peccioli Redux (22/03/2023)

Capannoli for real this time, Fuccehio, and Peccioli Redux (22/03/2023)

Niamh still had a yearning (quite correctly as it turns out) to get some sort of mini-table to put down next to seating in our living room, so after yesterday’s Capannoli closure, we knew the second-hand market was open today, and so drove there in the mid-morning. But I had the obligatory walk first.

I must be careful calling it that, as during our September visit I really cut back on the walking in order to give my joints and back a rest. I was beginning to resemble a nonegenarian getting out of a chair until I’d take 20 or so steps. Anyway, back to the ‘present’!

I took the fountain path up to the park and circled about it, before heading out Porta a Selci, past Marcoli carpark and the seminary, down to the road which took me to the Docciola free carpark. I eyed the steps that lead all the way back up to town. I sorta wussed out by taking the less steep ones, to the town and back home again. They’ll still wreck you a little!

Once breakfasted, washed and changed we rocketed towards Capannoli’s second-hand market. And it was, indeed, open! One thing about the Italians: they don’t seem to throw away anything. Old tech can still find its place here on the shelves. PCs with 3.5″ disk drives, CRT monitors, phones from bygone days. It’s almost as if they were catering not just to your average punter, but to also to bars and the props departments for theatres and film studios. Nothing is thrown away. Furniture that can be rightly called antique, to garish nasty stuff from the 70s. Tons of glassware and crockery – nothing is wasted. And you know what? I think this is absolutely the correct way. We are far too throwaway in Ireland, and have a thing or two to learn from these markets. Much of the stuff is super-cheap too!

Anyway, Niamh bought a couple of knick-knacks, but couldn’t find what we were looking for. We went back to the car and had a debate over what we’d do for lunch. We both fancied something Asian, but also wanted to try somewhere new. I spotted a town called Fucecchio, and a Chinese there (Ristorante Cinese Bambu’) was getting some good reviews, so off we went.

We got parking more or less beside it, which was super-handy. We found the food (are you sitting down?) actually not bad at all for an Italian Chinese. In fact, the stir-fry dishes were the best we’d found to date.

We left quite happy, and sure seeing as we were here, we thought we’d walk to the older part of Fucecchio to Fu-check-io (sorry) it out.

After a reasonably pleasant urbanised walk, we found our way to the older part. I might have been stuffed with Chinese, but there’s almost always room for gelato, and there was supposed to be a nice one in the central square. And we found it! Sort of. It’s called Pasticceria Caffe’ Malvolti. Given that it was a a couple of weeks before an Easter, they were not yet doing gelato, but had a lovely looking suite of cakes to try. Sadly, I was too stuffed for cakes, but I have made it a goal to return to Fucecchio and try it out. It really reminded me of Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi. Why I didn’t take any pics of it, I’ll never know. Stuff I have to remember next time!

We left and headed to Peccioli, because the major reason for heading out today was so I could meet my Italian teacher in person for a tour of the town. We stopped off in Biscottini to buy a little stool we would use as a drinks table. We arrived early, of course, and so spent a little bit of time at Jolé La Rosa for a little gelato. It was tasty. You know, I might have said we went here yesterday, but that was a dirty little lie. I’m going to leave this lie as is so I can think about what I did every time I see it.

Anyway, my teacher, Massimo, works for a Tuscan touring and experience company called Arianna and Friends. Please consider either them and Authentic Tuscany if considering putting together your own Tuscan package experience outside Volterra. We burned a tiny fraction of the gelato calories off by walking back to the car and driving to the offices of Arianna and Friends. We would have walked, only we knew we’d have to drive to Peccioli for Massimo’s tour of Peccioli. It would be largely in Italian and he would be listening to me intently, making it a sweaty end to the day for me!

His meeting overran a little so we waiting outside in the warmth. When he was ready, he had us follow him to Peccioli’s roofed carpark. We took one of the elevators up to the town, but before heading into the old town, we were shown the modern colour-covered walkway to the elevator that leads down to the newer side of town. Some people blow hot and cold on it, but I think it’s an interesting feature. I think it’s supposed to be expanded over to more of the shopping area of the new town, so it will actually be useful for the inhabitants going forward.

Once done here, Massimo took us into the town proper, but first to one of the new features: a converted palazzo, some of which is apartments that will be sold/rented, a small art gallery and exhibition centre and an enormous and unusual bar. Outside is a modern piazzetta-sized terrace, from which you can see some wonderful countryside of rolling hills, much of which the town has purchased, so it won’t be developed to spoil the view. Again, the views on the terrace are mixed, but most people I know actually quite like the contrast of the old and the new – and the terrace itself appears to be floating – there is no support at the far end; very well-engineered!

There were several exhibitions of art, which were there as part of a cultural festival in which prominent politicians, journalists and artists attended called ‘Pensavo Peccioli’. Massimo was a proud part of that.

Back outside, we were given a tour of the town. It’s essentially a town within castello walls, and so is relatively small. But they’re making the most of it – it is essentially an outdoor art museum. Look up or down, and there may be a hidden sculpture waiting to be discovered. Some neon lights adorn the rooves of arches, which look like seemingly like random squiggles, but which are actually elevation contour lines of the surrounding countryside. Another striking exhibit, is one of a wall on which over a hundred photgraphs of pairs of residents’ eyes.

In the main square, Massimo introduced us to a couple of builders who were restoring the church roof in the main piazza, and they showed us photos of their work. They spoke a bit too quickly for me, and I found their accent strangely strong. Maybe it was a dialect, but I don’t think so.

I don’t have many photos, as I was filming at the time, so you can check out Peccioli and the rest of the day in a video further below.

We said our goodbyes at the bar in the exhibition centre (aka Palazzo Senza Tempo), and then we headed home. Still stuffed from the Chinese earlier in the day, we didn’t head out, but stayed at home and chilled.

Here’s the video of the day:

Thanks for reading. Let me know if you found it enjoyable, useful or if you have any (polite) suggestion!

A Stroll in Siena

A Stroll in Siena

After a shortish walk yesterday, we finally got our act together and left for Siena around 10:30.  What we’ve found very useful is to aim for this car park.  It is about 100m away from a series of escalators that takes you straight to the heart of the old town.  It’s called Parcheggio San Francesco, but it’s not labelled as such in Google Maps, for some reason.

We got there around 11:45 and assumed that we might have to queue for a parking spot, but no – there there 20-odd still remaining.  Off we went up the 5 or 6 sets of escalators.

The thing is, Siena is essentially a Super Hilltown – much larger than most you’ll come across – certainly the largest in Tuscany.  Its medieval centre is at least twice the size of Volterra’s (except it’s population is far higher).  It’s famous red-bricked buildings has given the name to a colour artists are familiar with: Burnt Siena.  

Although it has fewer attractions for the ‘gotta-catchem-all’ tourist than Florence, I think it is a far more charming place, with hodge-podge streets and hidden arched alleyways, unlike Florence, which generally has wider roads and feels a little more open.  Siena is also less infested with humans than Florence, which is a good thing, in my book.  It’s still busy, mind you!

We started off by wending our way to the older parts, taking snaps.  Note again, that we didn’t really enter any of the attractions, as we’d just been there in April this year, and had a more thorough explore last year, again in April.

Then we entered the Piazza del Campo.  To me, this is the loveliest square in Italy.  Oh, there are others more famous, and possibly grander (St. Peter’s Square, St. Mark’s Square, Piazza Navona), but the Campo is the warmest.  It’s unusual, in that it’s in the shape of the shell, and it slopes a little.  Around its centre is a border of darker tiles, upon which, twice a year, sand is placed, so horses can race around it 3 times for the honour of their contrada in a race called the Palio.The contrade, or districts, of which Siena has 17, are represented by their flag and animal statue.  In one of the photos in the gallery below the cathedral section, you can see the statue of flag of one of them: pantera (panther).

I’m loathe to give advice which impacts the business of others, but I would advise that, sure, have a drink in one of the many establishments around the piazza, but do try to look to eat elsewhere.  There are a stack of restaurants off the beaten path which offer better value.

Yes, you can climb up that tower – I’ve never actually done that – will have to remedy that on another visit.

We had another explore and documented that.

We walked past the cathedral, and had to papp that too.  Originally, it was designed to be larger than the one in Florence – measuring dicks was very important to city-states like Florence and Siena back in the day.  In fact, you can actually see how large the building was supposed to be in one of the photos below.  It is a side shot of the cathedral, with parked cars and pillars of layered marble.  That entire carpark was supposed to be just one of the transepts!  But two things happened: they ran out of money (being a perpetually warring city-state is expensive business) and people (during the construction, around two-thirds of Siena’s population was obliterated by the plague).

The frontage is still pretty spectacular, as you can see.  There is a ticket office nearby, which enables you to purchase a ticket to visit several related attractions (the cathedral, the crypts and the ability to climb up to the roofs of the extended transepts for a great view of the city).  There may be entrances to galleries you can buy there too, I can’t remember.  Anyway, if it’s your first time in Siena, purchasing these tickets is a must.

We were hungry, and (apologies to those who want to see nothing but Italian food in the blog) were still on our oriental kick, so we went to New Shanghai, and took some pics on the way.

The food was ok… generally we have found that in Italy, Chinese restaurants are about on-par with average takeaways here.  Japanese restaurants are reputed to be better.

With bellies bursting, we headed back to the car, taking more snaps, and then went home.

When we got home, we headed immediately to the Cathedral square, as we suspected that it was going to open for the first time in at least 18 months – we had never been inside, as it was under restoration.  There were crowds gathered, not least priests and nuns from different orders.  I went into the baptistry to see if there was a timetable, and found one.  There was to be a procession from another church to the cathedral with the bust of St. Linus.  It said 17:00, but we were unsure if that was departure or arrival time.  We decided to was departure, and so went to a bar to get a drink and wait.

Upon arriving back, we were disappointed to see that we’d missed the actual opening of the doors.  There were people here and there in medieval finery and wearing uniforms of office.  There was to be a mass held, so we thought we’d pop in for a look, and maybe we’d stay through to the blessing of the new altar.  But the place just filled up, and began to get uncomfortably warm.  On top of that, we’d just come from Siena, and so were ill-equipped to go without bio-breaks (I think I put that as delicately as I possibly could!).  So, we decided to head out, somewhat embarrassingly, against the influx of officials and more medieval folk.

We had an icecream instead at L’Incontro!  We’ll go back today or tomorrow to have a proper explore of the cathedral, but I got a couple of shots.  The roof, as gorgeous as it is, somehow reminds me of Windows 3.1 wallpaper!   Anyone else old enough to remember those patterns?

There were additional pennants hung up for the occasion, and also (presumably coincidentally) new (and strange) art installations in the main square.

We did nothing else for the day, except screenwatch, and vainly throw socks at trolling, roof-bound mosquitos.

I got up and had took a short walk through the gloom this morning.  There was some islands amidst lakes of cloud, and I’m sure I could have gotten some amazing shots with a decent camera and an optical zoom lens.

Our furniture still hasn’t arrived yet, so we’re giving them one further half-day to contact our representative, or this afternoon we’ll travel directly to the store in Navacchio to shout at the store manager a while.  We’d obviously rather not have to do this: the drive is dull, and neither of us like confrontation, but it’s been 8 weeks since we ordered the damn stuff!

Montegemoli and a Cheat Meal

Montegemoli and a Cheat Meal

Later in the morning, we walked to the car and made for Montegemoli. I knew it was only a little hamlet, but it’s supposed to have a fabulous restaurant: Osteria dell’Ultimo Carbonaio (Hostelry of the Last Charcoal Pile – I’m thinking BBQ, although it’s not a BBQ place).

I got in the car and selected the restaurant in Google Maps. When I ask for directions and hit ‘Start’, it promptly tells me that it will probably be closed when I get there. Sure enough, the opening time (again, according to Google – the place doesn’t have a website of it’s own) is 18:00. We thought we’d give it a bash anyway, as there are a number of places we could drive to from there.

We got there, and parked in the car park, and of course the place was closed., and actually doesn’t open on Thursdays ’til 18:30 But the village… it’s absolutely gorgeous. It stands on a hill of its own, with a vista to Volterra is blocked by another intervening hill, but there are panoramic views to elsewhere. It was like a ghost town. We did not see one more soul as we wandered around. We will definitely be back to sample the restaurant, and to show the town off. Here are some pics:

With lunch impossible here, I had a look at Google Maps to see where we might be able to go.  Querceto is a lovely little hamlet we haven’t visited yet, and was a 22 minute drive away, but then I had to go and mention the Chinese place in Marina di Cecina, which is 37 minutes from Montegemoli.  We hadn’t had Chinese in over 5 weeks, and so pell-melled it there (Grande Cina), and had so much grub that we had nothing else for the rest of the day.  As Chinese restaurants go it’s ok when compared to back home, but it was just the change in flavours we needed.

We drove home with satisfied bellies, and lounged there, literally for the rest of the day.  On the plus side, I got a few hundred words written, so the day wasn’t completely lost!

I polished off Santa Clarita Diet (which I have since learned has been cancelled by Netflix), and Archer.  Carnival Row is out on Amazon, which both Niamh and I might be interested in, and I have yet to start Mindhunter!

Anyway, I got up this morning after a fitful night’s sleep, and decided to keep it within the walls.

Nothing planned for the daytime today, but this evening Niamh and I are celebrating our anniversary early by going to Del Duca for dinner.  Should be yummy!

Bye for now!