Tag: renaissance

Leonardo da Wherenow? (08/06/2023)

Leonardo da Wherenow? (08/06/2023)

Yay! It was time for another Day Of Fun™! Due to our friend’s love of history, and that fact that we hadn’t been to it in ages, we decided to drive out to the village of Vinci. Yes, that place, where your man is from – Frank… nah, just kidding, Leonardo, of course.. While perhaps not quite from the village, it is said that he lived in a house up in the hills nearby. Scholars (and charlatans, probably), can’t be 100% precise where he lived, but they have all settled on a particular house, based on his writings and some drawings of the nearby landscape. We had been to the village before, seen the museum and even eaten there – but this was before I started blogging or vlogging. So, this is effectively net new to you guys.

What isn’t net new, is that I went on a lovely walk. This was going to be (mostly) a lovely day, so the colours are lush and were not unwelcome. Enjoy!

As you can see, I kept it inside the walls this time around. I then to it to the top of the walls to have a look at the beautiful countryside surrounding the town.

After breakfasting and abluting we walked to the car, and drove the hour or so there. There’s handy parking, but it’s at the bottom of the town and it’s a mild uphill walk through the new part of town before you hit the museum ticket office.

There were only a couple of small groups ahead of us. While we waited, we marveled at the little birds who had nested in the ticket office. Anyway, when we go to the front, he completely blanked my wonderful “Tre studenti, per favore.” and paid complete attention to Niamh and my friend, who were obviously the adults in the group. We got our tix (which incidentally cover entry to Leonardo’s childhood home outside the town) and headed up the ramp immediately outside, into the old town.

I assure you that there actually some people there! One of the great things about having a car at your disposal is that you get to visit tons of places most tourists will never see – even one as culturally significant as Vinci. We walked through the old town’s laneways, had a look at Leonardo’s possible place of baptism, and admired some modern sculpture, before entering the exhibitions themselves. A couple of things to note here: firstly, these exhibitions relate to his engineering and anatomical studies and feats, not his art – and second, I don’t have many photos, as I was taking video at the time.

Ok, there is also a third thing: it was mercilessly hot in the building. They only had air-conditioning turned on in one room, in which we sat down for a little while.

The museum itself is fascinating, and contains many miniatures and working models of his machines. I lamented how he had to turn to making war machines to satisfy his benefactors and make a living. One curious thing – they had a huge model of the wings for humans, spread across the ceiling of one of the rooms. When we were reviewing the photos after, the ladies were astonished – neither of them had seen it!

We were hungry, and when looking for a place to eat, we came across a little piazzetta in which there were statues of Leonardo da Vinci and Qi Baishi (Chinese painter) by a Japanese sculptor. I have no idea why I have no photos nor video of these, as they were quite lovely. Such is life. Anyway, we were hungry and spotted a couple of snacky-restaurants below. Now, usually I’d run away from these types of places in obviously touristy areas, but I wasn’t getting the ‘we’re here to fleece you’ vibe from it, so we gave it a bash.

And I’m glad we did! The food was above average, but the people serving were so chatty and lovely – I live for these kinds of random interactions. We were just talking about where we came from, and if we’d visited here or there – nothing World-changing, but just… nice!

Before heading back to the car to try to find Leonardo’s gaff, we first entered a tiny souvenir place where I desperately tried to find some t-shirts that fit me – some of the designs were cheesy but fun. Sadly, most shops in Italy don’t cater for the larger gentleman. I lost 22.5 kg (50 lbs) when I was very ill with generalised anxiety disorder. Now that I’m (mostly) out of that, I’ve since put that and more back on – I need to lose weight. But even when I was at my skinniest, buying clothes in Italy was a huge challenge! I bought one anyway as a ‘promise’ to myself to fit into it.

Then we drove up the steep and wriggling road to where Leonardo’s house is said to be. Parking is easy, and there thankfully was a refreshments van there too, which we made use of on the way back.

We walked across the narrow road, and through a small olive grove until we reached the complex, of which Leonardo’s birth home is a part. A nice young man took our tickets and we entered the building. It’s not particularly big – just a few rooms. The room to the right contains a little diorama indicating Leonardo’s travels and other memorabilia. The room to the left had the most interesting thing: a projected mini-documentary where a lone actor playing Leonardo tells his life story, but through his love of his mother. This is definitely worth catching. Italian and English versions play alternately, and there is another room in the modern part of the complex, which it also plays it on a small TV – I’d catch the more immersive version in his house, if I were you. I didn’t take many photos, because I was taking video instead (see below).

We strolled around outside after, taking photos and video. Then we walked back to the car, got ourselves some refreshments back at the van (it was a hot old day!) and drove home.

Except we didn’t get as far as the apartment, did we?

And we didn’t quite stop at Antica Velathri CafĂ©. It was golden hour, so we raided Piazzetta Fornelli to check out the sunset. We met another friend there, and took photos of each other in between sips of aperitivi.

We were getting hungry (what else is new?), and thought we’d give one of our favourite places a bash: La Taverna della Terra di Mezzo. We just love Robbi and Aurora, the owner and waitress respectively – and the food is good – especially the meats. So that’s just what we had: a big, flip-off Florentine steak.

We were finishing up our meal when we heard a bit of a cacophony approaching Via Gramsci (where the restaurant lies). It turns out it was the feast of Saint Clement and Giusto – so there was a protracted procession of the town’s finest, chanting and holding candles while responding to a cleric on a loudhailer. You can catch this in the video just below:

And that was our day! I hope you enjoyed the read. Give me a shout with any comments/queries!

Volterra’s Art Museum

Volterra’s Art Museum

We crashed after bringing our guest to the airport, and then lazed about the apartment, screenwatching.  We headed out to Il Pozzo degli Etruschi for some lunch.  We were sat down the back, which we’d never been before, and so saw that they had a covered Etruscan well!

I had pici with lamb sauce, and Niamh had a boar chop with baked rosemary potatoes, with a side of grilled veggies.

A small thunderstorm forced us back to the apartment, where I stayed for a little sleep.  I got up around 17:00 and headed out to the town’s pinacoteca (art gallery).  It’s €8 for an adult to visit and allows entrance to the art museum and the neighbouring alabaster museum, which I visited first.  I think this museum is also covered by the Volterra Card, which you can buy for €16, which allowed entrance to many of the main attractions over a 3 day period.

As I said in one of my introductory posts, Volterra is the European centre for alabaster art, and has been for millenia, on and off.  The Etruscans carved it, which you can see in their funerary urns.  The museum here, has small mixture over a few floors of new and old pieces, spanning the near 3,000 years alabaster has been worked here.

At the top, is a reconstruction of a medieval alabaster workshop, along with a couple of nice views of the town below – including a little peek at the Roman ruins.

You can access the art gallery from the mezzanine below the top floor of the alabaster museum.  This takes you to the floor which houses the museum’s masterpiece: Rosso Fiorentino’s Deposition from the Cross.

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The red-haired, lamenting figure in the bottom right is often though to be the painter himself (‘Rosso’ being a nickname).  It’s interesting, though, that there is evidence that Judas Iscariot also had red hair, so the figure acts as a handy double.  It’s a pre-Renaissance piece, which is commonly believed to be one of the best early examples of Mannerism, which led to adoption of the style in Renaissance works. 

Most of the artworks on display are pre-Renaissance, ranging from mid 1200’s to late 1400’s, and thematically are religious in nature – inevitably, really – they were the ones with the money to commission the pieces.

There are also a couple some classic Renaissance works.

And this fresco by Daniele da Volterra (Daniele Ricciarelle), which was painted for the Medici family in the mid 1500’s.  The family crest is one of the main eye-catcher’s of the scene!

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You can also make out the coat-of-arms of Volterra on the left-hand side – the shield-mounted dragon.

There is also another room with works by a collection of Volterran artists, with works ranging from Renaissance to mid-1700’s.

I think it’s a worthwhile visit, if you have a passing interest in historical art, whether you like the theme or not.

On the way home, I stopped off in La Sosta del Priore and grabbed a couple of sausage and onion sambos for us.  We stayed in and screenwatched for the rest of the evening.  Talk about settling in!  I went to bed early, as I knew I wanted to get this blog written before we (hopefully) head to Florence in the morning.  We have two routes open to us: a slightly quicker route, two-thirds of which is on dual-carriageway, or a route through some wonderful countryside.  Hmmmmm…

Hopefully, we’ll park successfully, learn how to use the tram and tell you folks all about it tomorrow.